Fence work is production work. The quality is in the layout and the plumb; the profit is in how many posts go in per day.
A hydraulic auger or post driver on a mini skid steer changes the second number substantially — not because it's faster per hole, but because it doesn't slow down at two in the afternoon the way a crew with a two-man auger does.
Auger or Drive?
Two methods, and the ground decides.
Augering and setting — drill the hole, set the post, backfill with concrete or compacted aggregate. Works in nearly any soil. Slower, and you're buying concrete.
Driving — a hydraulic post driver pounds the post directly into undisturbed soil. Much faster, no concrete, and the undisturbed soil holds better than backfill in many conditions. Won't work in rock, very stony ground, or soil too soft to grip.
Agricultural, wire, and many wood fences get driven. Gate posts, corner posts, and most residential privacy fence still get set in concrete.
Before You Start
Call 811. Every job, every time, with lead time. This is the single most important line on this page.
Check property lines. Fence disputes are expensive and permanent. Survey pins, not assumptions.
Confirm setback and permit requirements. Many jurisdictions regulate fence height and placement.
Confirm depth. Frost depth and post height determine burial depth. A general rule for wood fence is roughly a third of the post below grade, but local frost requirements override rules of thumb.
What You'll Need
Attachments: Auger sized to your post, or a post driver · Bucket for backfill and spoils · Pallet forks for hauling posts and panels down the line
Tools: String line, stakes, tape, level, tamping bar
Steps
1. Set the line. Stakes at both ends, string pulled tight. Every post references the string. Take the time here — a fence line that wanders is visible forever.
2. Mark post locations. Measure from one end rather than post-to-post, so spacing errors don't accumulate. Mark ends, corners, and gates first, then fill between.
3. Drill or drive.
Augering: start slow to let the bit center, then advance in stages, raising periodically to clear spoil. Clean loose material from the bottom before setting the post.
Driving: position the post, verify plumb, and drive in controlled increments — checking plumb as you go. A post that starts leaning gets worse, not better.
4. Set and plumb. Post in the hole, brace it, check plumb on two adjacent faces. Two faces, not one — this is where posts end up leaning.
5. Backfill. Concrete for structural and gate posts. Compacted aggregate works well for line posts and drains better, which extends post life. Either way, tamp in lifts rather than dumping it all in at once.
6. Let it cure. Concrete needs time before you hang panels or stretch wire. Rushing this is how gate posts end up out of plumb.
Common Mistakes
Measuring post-to-post. Small errors compound down a long run. Measure from a fixed end.
Checking plumb on one face. A post can be plumb one way and leaning the other. Check two.
Backfilling all at once. Untamped backfill settles and the post loosens. Tamp in lifts.
Bit too large for the machine. Under-fed augers stall in clay and try to rotate the machine. Match flow requirement to the machine's auxiliary output.
Setting in a wet hole. Water in the hole compromises concrete. Bail it or wait.
Skipping the 811 call. Fence lines run along property boundaries, which is exactly where service laterals live.
Which Yellow Jacket Model
YJ1000 — the fence crew standard. 25 hp Kubota diesel, tracked.
YJ2000 — for large-diameter commercial posts, rocky ground, or high-volume production. 50 hp Yanmar diesel.
FAQ
How deep should fence posts go?
Frost depth is the controlling factor in cold climates. A common guideline for wood fence is a third of the post length below grade, but check your local requirement — it overrides the rule of thumb.
Concrete or gravel backfill?
Concrete is stronger and standard for gate and corner posts. Compacted aggregate drains better and can extend wood post life, and it's common for line posts. Local practice varies for good reasons — ask what works in your soil.
Can I drive posts instead of setting them?
Where soil allows, and it's much faster. Rocky, very stony, or extremely soft ground rules it out.
Will the auger work in clay?
Yes, but clear spoil frequently — clay packs the flights. Damp clay augers better than dry hard clay.
How many posts per day?
Varies with soil, depth, diameter, and crew. What contractors consistently report is that hole digging stops being the bottleneck and setting becomes the constraint.
What about rocky soil?
Larger rock stops any auger in this class. Spec more hydraulic capacity, use a carbide rock bit, and plan on some holes needing a bar.